Fete de la Musique.

The local fete de la musique took place the evening that we got back from our holidays so we thought it would be good to go with Tony and Mags to give them a taste of village life.
The programme stated that aperitifs would start at 7. 30 and the meal at 8.30. Knowing that these things never run to time we got there about 8.15. It didn't look as if there were that many there so we resigned ourselves to having a drink and waiting for things to happen. There was a group from Toulouse who were playing rather loud music so we took our drinks outside for a while. Slowly, more and more people turned up and the crowd round the bar got thicker and thicker. Another drink and we asked Sophie what time we could expect to eat, about 9pm she said. About 9 Sophie suggested that we take our places at the table she had reserved for us and our neighbours. Alain was sitting next to me and by 9.30 he was getting quite angry about the lack of food!! It seems that there is a hard core of "drinkers" who are reluctant to leave the bar and also a reluctance on the part of the organisers to close it as of course the profits go to whoever is organising the evening. Finally, at about 9.45, starters appeared and the bar shut and the rest of the evening got underway. After the starters, melon and ham, the main course of magret de canard and stuffed baked potatoes arrived and kept arriving. Not only seconds but thirds and fourths as well ! It must have been 11pm when everyone had eaten their fill and this was the time that the pupils of the Castandet school of music were due to give their "recital". We felt so sorry for the children as it was so late and their excitement had been building throughout the evening. It was such a big occasion for them! The "recital" only lasted for about half an hour as they showed off their prowess on various instruments. As we commented, their enthusiasm was greater than their ability. A young lad on the drums, so small that one could barely see him behind them, was very good as was the last performer an older lad on the piano. That over it was back to the food, large platters of sheeps cheese and then dessert. Once dessert was over the group took to the stage again and started on a very special version of what sounded like rap. Most people were amazed at this, some laughing, some looking decidedly shocked! At this point we decided not to wait for coffee and to make our farewells. It had been a long evening and Tony and Mags were leaving the next morning. I think that, although bemused, Tony and Mags enjoyed their taste of village life but would not be too willing to repeat it on a regular basis.!

Holidays. June 2009

Our friends, Tony and Mags, arrived on the 13th May ready to have their holiday here whilst looking after Rambo for us as well.

Day 1. CASTANDET TO BORDEAUX.

We left the next morning and our first stop was Bordeaux. I had bought a GPS much to Nigels dismay, I reckoned that it would save some domestic disputes! However by the time we got to Bordeaux the battery was not charged, is it a duff GPS or did I not charge it up properly? Well, at least that has solved the problem of Nigel complaining every time it told us where to go!!
We parked at the park and ride on the outskirts of Bordeaux. Bordeaux has a very modern and efficient tram service. Three lines serve the network. Parking plus the return trip, to the city centre, was just 6 euros for the 2 of us, a bargain we reckoned in these days of car park fees. Whilst we were waiting for the tram there was a public service announcement to say that the tram could not go beyond a certain area due to a demonstration in the town centre. We had to get off about 3 stops before the town centre, so with no map of the town we just had to try and walk in the right direction. It was soon time for lunch so we had a relaxing hour or so eating our lunch and watching the world go by. It was a very hot day so everywhere we went we walked or sat in the shade if it was at all possible. After lunch we found our way to the banks of the Garonne and eventually found the town centre and the tourist office where we were able to get a map and to relax for a while in the air conditioned building.
The architecture in the old town is stunning and the banks of the Garonne have recently been renovated and planted out.
We walked through the old town and had an ice cream stop before visiting the Beaux Arts art gallery. At this point we came across the demonstration which was still going on - a Gay Pride march I found out by asking a bystander. This explained some of the very bizarrely dressed people that we had seen! Apart from the tremendous noise that they were making there seemed to be no problems and no signs of violence.
Entrance to the Beaux Arts was free and it was worth going in if only for the air conditioning! I don't think either of us was very impressed with the paintings but one certainly took my eye. Sadly I can't remember who painted it. It was an extremely large work and depicted the scene on the quay in the centre of town back in the early 18th century. It was such an interesting work and so full of detail. The sort of painting one could look at again and again and still find something one had missed beforehand.
A brief walk around the park and we made our way back to the town centre. The rue Ste Catherine is the longest pedestrianised street in Europe and is full of many major retail shops The historic part of the city is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as "an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble" of the 18th century.
The Grand Theatre which stands in the centre of the old town was designed by the architect Victor Louis and was conceived as a temple of the Arts and Light The inside of the theatre was restored in 1991, and once again has its original colours of blue and gold. The Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux is the oldest wooden frame opera house in Europe not to have burnt or required rebuilding.Today the theatre is home to the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux.
I managed to encourage Nigel to take a trip around the town on a little tourist "train", not really a train a motorised version of one. It was good to sit down and relax but the trip involved a lot of cobbled streets and we were bounced around a lot! I enjoyed seeing the sights and hearing the commentary but sadly it was not the high point of the day for Nigel!!
Another walk down the rue Ste Catherine and we decided on an Italian restaurant for our evening meal. The waiter was jolly, completely covered in tattoos, well at least the parts of him that were visible.
A short walk back to the tram stop and we were soon on board and on our way back to the car. We managed to find our overnight accomodation, the Formula 1 hotel near the airport, even without the help of the GPS!

Day 2. BORDEAUX TO LA ROCHELLE.
From the hotel we made our way up the left hand side of the Garonne estuary to Verdon-sur-mer where we caught the car ferry to Royan. Thankfully it wasn't as hot as the previous day and there was a nice breeze. Royan is a very popular seaside town with a harbour and a long beach. Lots of seasidey shops and restaurants along the seafront where we walked and browsed. Choosing the right place to have lunch was not a problem as we immediatly went for the 3 courses for 13 euros with a starter of half a lobster which was very acceptable! Then back to the car and we drove up towards La Rochelle. I had booked a hotel in les Minimes which is a smaller seaside town adjoining La Rochelle and boasts the largest marina for pleasure boats in Europe. After booking in Nigel decided to have a siesta so I went out and explored the area. The hotel was not far from the harbour, beach, shops and restaurants so after recconoitering the area I went back to have a relax before we went out for the evening.

Day 3. LA ROCHELLE-ILE DE RE.

Cool, overcast and drizzly morning. Drove the short way to the Aquarium in La Rochelle which is one of Europe's premier aquariums. Spectacular stuff. You enter through an 'elevator' which simulates a ride deep into the sea. When you emerge you are in a tunnel surrounded by water. From there on in it gets better. The highlight must be the "central core" shark tank which must be some 20 metres deep. In effect, you pass by it at three different levels, viewing the sharks from below, and then at eye-level. On leaving the aquarium we had a stroll on the quay admiring the vast array of boats and yachts in the harbour. We had a quick lunch and walked on into the old part of town which is adjacent to the quay. Then back to the car and on our way to our next destination, the ile de Re. After an exciting drive with few directions through the centre of the town we managed to find the road to the bridge which would take us over the island.
The bridge is 3 kms long and was opened in 1988 and Since then, touristic activities on the island have developed considerably, with real estate prices reaching very high levels.We saw properties priced at much more than a million euros! The island has a resident winter population of approximately 16,000 residents and a resident summer population of about 160,000. Since the local population is distributed all over the island, it never gets too crowded. The island is covered by bicycle tracks, with many residents rarely using cars for transportation. Night life consists of going to Saint Martin, the main port, or to La Flotte, to walk along the quays and to potter around the shops, which are open very late. Île de Ré is a low, narrow island some 30km long, fringed by sandy beaches to the southwest and salt marshes and oyster beds to the northeast, with the interior a motley mix of small-scale vine, asparagus and wheat cultivation. All the buildings on Ré are restricted to two storeys and are required to incorporate the typical local features of whitewashed walls, curly orange tiles and green-painted shutters, which give the island villages a southern holiday atmosphere. In years gone by when the islanders used donkeys for agricultural work they "dressed" them in "pyjamas" to protect their legs from biting insects!
Once on the island we made our way to our hotel in the village of La Flotte. We drove past the harbour with its restaurants and shops and eventually found our hotel up a little side street not far from the harbour and shops. Amazingly we found a parking place right outside the hotel. We were shown to our room which was beautiful with french doors opening out onto the patio. Once again, Nigel took to the bed for a siesta and I went out to explore. The village is a maze of narrow streets, white walls and hollyhocks abound. Back to the hotel and we got ready to go for a stroll and a meal. Mussels and oysters abound on the restaurant menus, at one place I counted 13 different ways of serving mussels!!
Next morning we walked a short way out of town and along the beach. At the far end of the beach was a quiet parking area lined with mulberry trees. We decided that it would be nice to spend some time there so I walked back to the hotel, got swim suit and towels, went and bought ingredients for a picnic and drove back to the carpark. We were able to set our chairs in the shade right at the edge of the beach and enjoy a lazy several hours. I went in the sea which was quite warm but quite shallow. I manage to get out far enough to swim but with some difficulty as it was still relatively shallow. Another evening in a restaurant on the quay followed.
Although we had only booked for 2 nights at the hotel we decided to stay an extra night. Our hotel was booked up but we were able to get a room at another hotel on the quayside. So next morning we packed our bags and set off to explore the island and went up to the tip of it where the "lighthouse of the whales" stands. The lighthouse takes its name from the many whales that beached at this spot. The last mass beaching of whales dates from 1920. The Phare des Baleines itself dates from 1854, but it was built to replace a first lighthouse dating from 1682, locally known as the Tour des Baleines (Tower of the Whales). The old tower, of a smaller size and insufficient range, is one of the oldest lighthouses in France and is close by. The present lighthouse is 57 metres high, and can be seen from a distance of around 45km.
After the lighthouse we found a quiet beach where we could sit and relax for a while before going for lunch. We went to St Martin de Re which is one of the main villages of the island. It was much busier - and more expensive- than La Flotte although a very pretty place. Back in La Flotte we checked in to our new hotel for our last night on the island.

ILE DE RE - BOURROU
After a leisurely breakfast we said goodbye to the island and went back over the bridge to the mainland. Our next stop was to be Bourrou, a village in the Dordogne about 20kms south of Periguex where our friends Irene and Fabrice live. We had an uneventful drive there with just a quick stop for a picnic lunch arriving about 4pm.
Irene and I "met" on the internet and we have met a couple of times previously. I met Fabrice once and Irene has been here once. They live on the edge of the village and are in the process of building a house and creating a magical garden. Fabrice is a farmer and he and Irene have a herd of Angora goats, a few sheep, geese, hens, pigs and dogs. The house looks about 200 years old but they have built it from scratch, the wood and the beams being sourced from their forest. They have done so much work there that I can't begin to describe it but if you want to know more have a look at www.lafermedesourrou.blogspot.com

We had a very warm welcome from them both - dogs as well- and settled down to have a good chat. We ate outside on the terrace, steak cooked on the bbq by Fabrice was the main ingredient and very good it was too! Needless to say the wine flowed!
Next day Irene and I went shopping to a nearby village before going back and wandering around the garden, looking at the goats and all the other livestock. Fabrice cooked a splendid Tartiflette for lunch washed down with some more of the local wine. A lazy afternoon followed, another splendid meal and off to bed.
Next day it was time to say goodbye and leave for home. Before leaving Irene and I walked round the garden and she offered me lots of plants and cuttings so we had a full car when we left.

The Party

Well, as I said in the previous post we were now expected to provide aperitif and food for the neighbours who erected our "pin". It seemed a good opportunity, as well, to do a house warming at the same time. I conferred with Sophie, our neighbour, about the date as we had to make sure that there was nothing else planned in the area for the same night. We settled on Saturday the 6th of June as the evening and she assured me that the weather would be fine by then. Sophie also helped me with the wording of the invitation and, once they were printed, I asked Thomas, her son, if he would deliver them for me. By the time that I had added on several other friends it looked as if the total number of guests would be about 30, not counting children. Our friends Kate and Peter who live near Lannemazan planned to come over for the evening and stay overnight, good to have them for moral support.
Preparations started on the Thursday morning when I started preparing the food. A job I love doing but always a problem to know how much to make for so many people. Relying on my memory of previous parties in Ariege I knew that people would eat a lot! Sadly the weather was not good and the forecast didn't promise any improvement. Too late to cancel so we would just have to try and cram everyone into the house if it rained. So, kitchen all day Thursday and most of Friday until about 3pm when we brought the large garden table into the big room next to the kitchen. There are french windows from there out into the garden so it would be easy to move it outside later. Paper plates, serviettes, forks, knives, glasses and bottles all laid out, quick tidy round the house before getting ourselves ready. Thankfully the rain of earlier had stopped and it looked as if we were going to be lucky with the weather and hold the party outside.

Guests were expected to arrive from 7pm onwards. I was outside arranging some chairs at 6.30 when a car pulled into the driveway. Panic, had I got the time wrong! It was Mme Lamothe who has a farm down the road and also makes and sells Armagnac. Don't worry she said, the guests aren't arriving yet. We may be a little late so I have popped up with this for you and presented me with a bottle of 1990 Armagnac. It was just the first surprise among many that followed.

Kate and Peter arrived and we were just having a pre party drink when the neighbours below arrived. Now I must explain about Phillippe and Dominique as I now know them. Although we live so close we have never met them before. We had been told that he is an anaesthetist at the local hospital and that she has a business in Mont de Marsan and that although they have been here for 4 years that they don't integrate in village life. Well.. I decided that we should invite them and I had put an invitation in their postbox. I did recognise him as I had seen him pass by in his car so at least I knew who they were when they walked down the drive. After the introductions they said that they could only stay for half an hour as they had a previous appointment in town where their daughter was playing in a volley ball team. He is very quiet and she is charming and chatty. All too soon they had to leave but before doing so they invited us to their house, tomorrow lunchtime, for an aperitif. So a very successful start to the evening.

By 7.30 the place was buzzing and I was busy serving aperos and welcoming everyone ably helped by Nigel, Kate and Peter. Sadly Alain was not able to be here as he has the flu and Phillippe, his son and Sophies husband, was only here briefly as he was going down with the same thing. At one point I noticed Phillippe and Dominic erecting a couple of sun loungers. I thought that's good they are going to be comfortable. I was completely and utterly stunned when Sophie told me that the neighbours had clubbed together and bought them for us. Not only are they comfortable but they are bottle green to match the shutters. So thoughtful. I managed to thank everyone and then Nigel and I had to "lounge" on them whilst a group photo was taken .

I conferred with Sophie about the food and although one or two people had still to arrive she decided that we should serve it at 8.15. It was easy to carry the table outside and as soon as I announced that it was ready everyone was there with their plates. Some stood up to eat and several people nabbed places at the little tables that were dotted around and made themselves comfortable. By the time I got to the table lots of the food had already gone but I think that everyone had their fill.

There were quite a lot of children here ranging in age from 2 to about 15, next time I shall make sure that I buy more coke as the 2 litres that I had bought disappeared very quickly as did the bottle and half of whiskey (that wasn't for the children!) The children ran around the garden and soon discovered the cherry tree! They had great fun stuffing themselves with the cherries. Fortunately it is laden this year so there are still a lot left! Oh and a couple of neighbours dogs came too, so Rambo too had someone to play with! He was a bit of a spoilsport though, after a couple of hours he went to bed and ignored them.

And so the evening carried on with people chatting, eating and drinking and generally enjoying themselves. I was told that the "pin" now had to be burned, I protested and was told that we can keep it a bit longer. Until the fete of Castandet when they will come and burn it and then we have to buy the aperos at the fete. Crafty lot aren't they, they get 2 lots of aperos!! Not that I am complaining after their generosity. The best part of the evening was when we were told that we are now part of Perron (our part of the village).People started drifting away about 10pm and it was about 11.30 when the final ones departed.

A truly memorable evening and one that we won't forget for a long time.

There are lots more photos on http://picasaweb.google.com/drnmarsh951/AperosJune6th2009#

The next bit is mainly for me if I need to refresh my memory about who was here.
Jean and Cristel - the ladies who live in the house above ours.
Dominic and Christine who live opposite the ladies.
Christine but not Alain who was ill who live opposite.
Sophie, Phillippe, Anna and Thomas who also live opposite.
Pascal who lives in Perron.
Bernard and Chantal who live next door to Pascal.
Jean Marc and Pascale and daughter Adelaide, the farming family from Perron.
Olivier and son Romeo (wife popped in later, she had been somewhere else) the other newcomers to Perron.
Roland, Christiane and Thierry Lamothe, big farmers who supply us with our Christmas capon and used to make Armagnac.
Richard and Karen who Nigel met at French language classes.
Arthur and Lily, our Irish friends.
Stefan my bridge friend with his wife and 2 children.
Raphael, Lucas and Lucas' girlfriend from Perron. Their father couldn't come as he had to work early the next day.
And last but not least Kate and Peter