Monday, November 7, 2011

Visit to a cider house in Spanish Basque country.

On Saturday the 5th November we went on a trip from Castandet to the Spanish Basque country. The trip was organised by the village fair committee and some of the cost of the day was underwritten by them. The weather was far from promising, pouring rain, but undaunted we arrived at the mairie at 8pm prompt. There didn't seem to be too many people there and on asking I found out they only 15 people were expected. A great shame that there wasn't more support from local people. We only knew one other person, Bernard a neighbour of ours, but by the end of the day we were all great friends! The coach didn't arrive until 8.15 so it was about 8.30 by the time we left. We stopped at Soubrosse to pick up supplies from a boulangerie and then about 10.30 we stopped, at a motorway service area, for breakfast. Due to the rain we had to take cover in the toilet area but that didn't spoil the enjoyment of the somewhat sumptuous snack that was provided. A good array of fresh baquettes, pate, pain au raisins, pains au chocolat and apple turnovers. As well as hot coffee from flasks there was also a choice of red or rose wine. A bit early in the day but what the hell, when in France!! I made a couple of trips to the coach with coffee and patisserie for the lady who was sitting near us as she was rather incapacitated due to a knee operation.



An hour or so later we set off again and were soon driving past Bayonne and to the Spanish border. Once over the border we stopped at one of the many supermarkets to give people the chance to shop. At one time a lot of things were cheaper in Spanish supermarkets but now it seems that apart from tobacco and some alcohol there is not much price difference. We bought a couple of bottles of sherry as that doesn't seem to be sold here and a bottle of port. We were soon back at the coach as we had been told that we wouldn't be stopping for long. However it was about another hour before the rest of the party made their way back to the coach after, it seemed, spending time in the bar!
Finally we were on the last leg to the cider house of Aginaga where we arrived shortly before 2pm. These Basque cider houses seem to be popular tourist attractions in both Spanish and French Basque regions. We entered a huge hall, at one side of the entry was a bar and at the other a huge open fire and piles of beef ribs. Opposite, on the far wall, were barrels of cider and wine set into the wall. In  between were rows of trestle tables some already occupied . We were offered one then another aperitif so became resigned to the fact that we may be the last ones to start eating. The wine and cider in the barrels was available freely so I did try a drop of the cider but was not very impressed with it. Being aware of the fact that the wine would be flowing during the meal I thought it best not to mix my drinks!
By now we were all in a very jolly mood and we finally sat down to the mammoth meal. Jugs of wine, red and rose, were filled (and refilled) and set on the table. The first course was a local dish of omelette of salt cod. It doesn't sound very appetising but was in fact very acceptable although that could have been due to the fact that I was starving! Next we had fresh cod with grilled peppers. Then the piece de resistance a huge beef rib cooked over the open fire. It's a long time since I have tasted such good beef, cooked just right as well. Second helpings were brought and I couldn't resist them! Then a dish of dressed green salad with onions and to finish cheese and quince paste.
As we had been pretty late eating it was now going on for 6pm and our coach driver was keen to leave. We had no sooner pulled out of the car park than the singing started! Thankfuly most of them were at the back of the coach as although it was very jolly it was far from being tuneful Occasionally one of the younger ones came down to the front to serenade us and at one point one of them got down on his knees and begged me to sing something in English. Those of you who know me will know that I am completely tone deaf but my protestations fell on stony ground and eventually I gave in. A spirited rendidtion of Rock around the Clock followed by God Save the Queen soon stopped any further requests and we were left in relative peace for the rest of the journey home!
It certainly was a day to remember and a meal to remember and we made lots of new bosom pals!

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